Here's five important checks to make to your racing powerglide transmission before the start of season.
1. If the car has been sitting for a period of time, look for any obvious oil loss on the floor of your trailer or shop. Automatic transmission fluid may be leaking from a worn seal, bad gasket, or cracked housing. If you are using a stock case, they are more prone to crack and leak in the rear clutch section. If this is a problem, we recommend upgrading to a more reliable housing.
2. Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter. Inspect the used oil in the pan after removal. If more than normal amounts of clutch material or metallic flakes are found, it may be time to do a rebuild of the transmission to replace worn out bushings, washers, or the band. Also, when it is time to fill the transmission and converter again, we recommend using a quality full synthetic fluid or a semi-synthetic blend like this one.
Also, don't forget to check the oil level with a quality dipstick - over- or under-filled transmissions won't perform properly.
3. To prevent the premature wearing or failure of the powerglide band, set the band adjustment to the specs as found in our band adjustment guide.
4. Test the line pressure of the transmission in all modes of operation. Less than standard line pressures will cause clutch and band failure in high performance applications. BTE recommends low/high gears line pressures of 225-275 psi for most powerglide configurations, and we have pressure springs available for all pressures.
5. Remove the yoke from the rear of the transmission and inspect for wear. Improperly matched yokes can cause problems with transmissions using roller bearings in the tail housing. You'll need a nitrided yoke if using a roller tail housing.
Follow those five points and your racing powerglide transmission will be ready to stage.