Torque Converter & Transmission Installation Instructions
Step 1 Before you begin - let vehicle cool for about an hour. Disconnect battery. Raise vehicle and support on jackstands. The higher you raise it, the easier it is to work under.
Step 2 Drain oil from transmission by removing the drain plug. Now is a good time to install a new Drain Plug Kit. If your pan does not have a drain plug you can remove bolts from one end, allowing bolts on the other end to hold the pan. The pan will drop down, allowing the fluid to run out the end. Catch fluid in drain pan. Replace pan gasket. By removing converter dust cover, converter flywheel bolts are exposed. On Ford and Chrysler transmissions rotate convertor to locate drain plug. Remove and drain converter.
Step 3 Remove converter from flywheel. Remove four (4) bolts on Chrysler, three (3) bolts on GM, and remove four (4) nuts on Ford.
Step 4 Disconnect speedometer, selector, and throttle linkage, wires, vacuum lines, cooler connections and remove dipstick and tube. On Chrysler and Ford remove starter from bellhousing. Remove driveshaft.
Step 5 Be sure to support the bottom of transmission with a transmission jack. Remove crossmaster. Lower the transmission slightly. Support rear of engine if engine has front mounts. Remove transmission to engine bolts. Before separating transmission from engine, take precaution to keep converter in transmission - DO NOT ALLOW IT TO FALL OUT! Remove transmission with converter.
Step 6 Remove converter from transmission carefully.
FORD C-4 & C-6 TRANSMISSIONS WARNING!
Input shaft can at times pull out with converter. Try to avoid this. Because some Ford input shafts can only be installed one way due to spline length difference, installing shaft the wrong way will damage converter. Check with local Ford service department for correct installation. If the shaft slipped part of the way out, simply push it back as far as it will go. Inspect input shaft for wear and burrs. You may need to replace the input shaft. BTE has several different applications available.
Step 1 Old converter hub must be inspected for wear, scoring or damage. Such defects indicate that the front pump bushing should be replaced before installing the new converter. The front pump seal should also be replaced. The body of the seal can be distorted by improper installation. Failure to attend to these two steps can result in damage to the new converter and cause leaks.
Step 2 Check the mating surfaces of transmission case and engine block for nicks, dirt, etc. Use a file to remove raised areas when necessary - be careful not to remove metal from mating surfaces! Examine converter pilot and crank pilot hole for dirt, rust, paint, etc. Clean as necessary with sandpaper.
Step 3 Inspect engine block dowel pins. Pins must be secure and in good condition. Replace if loose or damaged. Also check the condition of the dowel holes in the case. If damaged, they must be sleeved. BTE can supply extra-long new dowel pins.
Step 4 Inspect splined couplings (input shaft and stator support) for burrs and damage. A burred or damaged spline can cause difficulty at installation, if not impossible. A burred spline can easily be corrected. Use a small triangle file, remove burrs the length of the spline. After burrs have been removed, position a straight edge in the same manner as the triangle file. Using the straight edge as a guide, check to make sure the splines are not twisted. Twisted splines should be replaced should they be moved over 1/2 spline.
Step 5 Coat the surface of the hub of the converter with automatic transmission fluid. For racing applications or vehicles that are used for towing, pour one (1) quart of transmission fluid in converter. Install converter on transmission carefully, supporting the weight of it to avoid damage to the front pump seal. Rotate converter as you push it on. The splined couplings (input shaft and stator support) and the pump lugs must engage properly to allow the converter to slide all the way onto the transmission. The distance between the converter mount mating surface and the flywheel or flexplate should not be greater than 3/32". Pull converter off slightly, then push it on again, rotating it at the same time until proper clearance is obtained. Do not proceed further until you have installed converter properly.
Step 1 Install transmission on dowel pins. Converter MUST be free to rotate and to move forward and backward (end-play) after transmission is bolted to engine. Transmission and converter should mate with engine, crankshaft, and flywheel with relative ease. Face of transmission flange must be flush with engine all the way around before any bolts are tightened. NEVER use bolts to 'draw up' transmission to case. The transmission should not be allowed to hang on the dowel pins. Transmission must be supported until at least two (2) bolts have been installed and fully tightened.
|Chrysler - Torqueflite 727||1-1/4" from Bell Housing to Ring Gear|
|GM Turbo-Hydramatic 350||1-1/8" from Bell Housing to Pads|
|GM Turbo-Hydramatic 400||1-3/16" from Bell Housing to Pads|
|GM Powerglide||1-1/8" to 1-1/16" from Bell Housing to Pads|
|Ford C-6||1-1/8" from Bell Housing to Pads|
* Distance may vary either way .050".
Step 2 After transmission and converter are bolted together check converter for freedom of movement. Make sure converter can rotate and has end-play. Converter must be free to move a minimum of 1/8", but not more than 3/16". If converter has no end-play, converter was installed improperly. Remove transmission and correct problem.
Ford C-4 & C-6 Transmissions: Drain plugs must be exposed through holes in flexplate.
Chrysler Transmissions: Align small hole in flexplate opposite converter drain plug. This will align all four (4) converter bolts properly.
Step 3 Complete the transmission installation only when end-play is satisfactory. Apply Loctite to converter bolts or nuts, then tighten to 30 ft/lbs.
Step 4 Elevate rear wheels 3" off ground. Install four (4) quarts transmission fluid. Use a good grade of automatic transmission fluid. BTE can supply you with racing fluid. Start engine and finish filling transmission as quickly as possible. Do not overfill. Shift transmission through all gears with light throttle and recheck fluid level. Fluid level should be one (1) pint low with selector in neutral or park when vehicle is on level. Check at operation temperature should be on full mark.
Step 5 Inspect for leaks with engine running. Inspect all connections (cooler lines and radiator fittings).
Step 6 Cooler line fittings must be tightened to 12 ft/lbs. Use caution, over-tightening can cause transmission case to burst at fittings. Do not use teflon tape.
BTE's New Powerglide Race Pump is designed to maintain not only high, but more importantly, constant fluid pressure and value at all RPM levels and modes of operation. With extensively modified fluid channels, modified pump crescent, and with a newly designed 4340 stator tube, each tube is precision machined with a flange to accept 4 solid heat-treated dowel pins which eliminates stator tube spinning. This pump has made more than 300 lbs. of live pressure in our Top Sportsman/Dragster test transmissions. When needed, sets of oversized gears are also installed. These pumps are ready to install and race.
PART # DESCRIPTION
243500 P/G Race Pump
POWERGLIDE GEAR SETS
BTE's planetary gear sets have been a flagship component product since their introduction several years ago. The planetary set, the backbone of a transmission, must be strong to withstand the abuse of a high performance vehicle.
Our premier gear set, the straight cut Powerglide planetary has seen zero gear failures to date in any application. Starting with a 4340 steel forged output shaft, this planetary is cut on our own Hass CNC mills to accept either a stock or billet style yoke. Available in either standard diameter, or the upgraded Magnum series with a Turbo 400 sized output shaft, this heavy-duty piece will eliminate the problem of twisted or broken output shafts.
Within our new planetary gear housing are our popular straight cut gears. Available in 1.65, 1.76, 1.80, 1.96 and 1.98 ratios, these gears are made from certified 9310 vacumelt steel and heat treated to perfection. These gears are held in place with new steel pins and our new pin locking system. All aftermarket powerglide gear sets feature this new upgrade. Included in this gear set are a 9310 sun gear with flange and a new steel reverse ring gear. All straight cut gear sets feature a one-year warranty against breakage to the original purchaser.
PART # DESCRIPTION
245605 1.76 Shorty Stock Gear Set with 4340 Output
247403 1.76 Gear Set with 4340 Output
255650 1.65 Shorty Straight Cut
247450 1.65 Standard Straight Cut
245610 1.80 Shorty Straight Cut
247410 1.80 Standard Straight Cut
245620 1.80 Magnum Shorty Straight Cut
247420 1.80 Magnum Standard Straight Cut
245690 1.96 Shorty Straight Cut
247490 1.96 Standard Straight Cut
245680 1.98 Shorty Straight Cut
247480 1.98 Standard Straight Cut